The wind that had hounded us for the past week on Baja had also whipped the Sea of Cortez into a choppy mess. So our ferry ride from La Paz across to Topolobampo wasn’t much fun. It started out well, we joined the truckers in the on board bar for a few Tecates, and the tv’s were playing ‘Smells like the 90s’ video hits. After we left the port and hit the rough water we both spent most of the 6 hour ride lying down in the cinema room concentrating on not barfing.
But, we made it safe and sound and also picked up a new friend. Julia was also on the ferry and, like us, she didn’t have any plans following our 9pm arrival. So we split a hotel room for the night and then she joined us in the van for a few days as we slowly made our way down the coast.
Our first stop was a deserted trailer park in Celestino where we spent the sunset hours chatting in broken Spanish to the campground host, Teo. Topics of conversation included what kind of fish can be caught here, and how all the Canadians he knows are named Ken.
When we needed a change from coconuts, we strolled down to the beach and bartered for fresh oysters with the local divers as they returned to the beach with the day’s haul. They sat out there for hours with their tire tubes bobbing in the waves as the snorkelled around prying the shells from the rocks. Fried oyster tacos… delicious.
One of the cool things about camping in Mexico is that we always have a pet. This time it was a cat that followed us everywhere and was really fussy about her oysters. Our next campsite paradise was in Teacapan. More coconuts. No fish.